Historically Significant Perfume Recipes

Ancient perfume recipes offer a fascinating glimpse into the aromatic traditions of early civilizations. In ancient Egypt, perfumes were crafted using a blend of resins like myrrh and frankincense, combined with oils from plants and flowers such as lotus and jasmine. These perfumes were used in religious rituals, personal adornment, and burial practices. Ancient Greek and Roman perfumes often featured ingredients like spikenard, cinnamon, and rose, reflecting a rich trade network that spanned from the Far East to the Mediterranean. Techniques such as enfleurage, which involved extracting scents by soaking flowers in fat, were commonly employed. Ancient texts and archaeological findings, including remnants from burial sites and vials, provide clues about these complex formulations. While some ingredients are no longer available or have changed, modern recreators strive to reconstruct these ancient fragrances, preserving a sensory connection to the past.

Few facts regarding famous ancient perfumes and Their Recreations

Few ancient facts
4500 BC- The first writings about fragrant ingredients date back to China in 4500 BC, so it is possible the perfume history goes back farther.
4000BC - 43,000 Sq ft big ancient factory is found in today's Cyprus. This was used to extract oils in 4000BC.  But we can’t be sure if it was medicinal usage or for fragrances.
3000 BC - A distillation vessel from 3000BC, found at Harappa, a key city in ancient Indus Valley Civilisation
2000 BC - First recorded chemist, “Ms Tapputi” from Mesopotamia lived in 2000 BC
1332 BC - King Tutankhamun was buried with jars of Frankincence and Blue Lotus over his grave
890 BC - Earliest written record, a book named “Perfume: combined ingredients” is from 890BC. Armenian kings presented King Tukulti Ninurta (Mesopotamia) this valuable gift.

The development of perfume did not originate in a single place or period. Instead, it evolved over time as humanity's collective interest in enhancing their sensory experiences, especially smell and taste, grew. Perfume's progression is a result of various cultures contributing to its evolution across different eras.

Below, we have compiled a selection of perfume formulas that we regularly stock. These include recipes from Ancient Egypt, Persia, India, Greece, Rome, and China. Additionally, we feature some perfume recipes from Medieval Europe, with a focus on Italy and France.

Ancient Egyptian Perfume Recipe

The Egyptians were well known to have used perfumes to mask the body odour. They even carried perfume head-cones, which was a big fashion statement at that time. After taking control of Egypt, when Julis Caesar went back to Rome, he threw precious perfume to the crowd during his triumphant procession. The god of perfume, Nefertum, was also a god of healing. He could be described as the world's first aromatherapist!

Seshen - Essence of Blue Lotus

The Fragrance of Cleopatra
According to Egyptian hieroglyphs, Cleopatra’s renowned scent was the sweet and captivating aroma of blue lotus. Often compared to “cannabis of Ancient Egypt,” this fragrance was highly prized. The traditional recipe for this perfume includes a blend of frankincense, blue lotus absolute, and cinnamon.
Sacred Significance and Effects
The blue lotus held a sacred status among the Pharaohs due to its hallucinogenic properties. While the flower may induce a mild sense of tranquility and euphoria, its full intoxicating effects were achieved when combined with wine, a practice of ancient Egyptians.
Divine Essence
To the ancient Egyptians, the scent of the blue lotus was believed to embody the divine essence, likened to the perfume of Ra’s sweat. This sacred fragrance was considered a direct connection to the gods, representing a divine olfactory experience.

Tutankhamun's Perfume Recipe

The Kyphi Formula Historians widely agree that the perfume associated with Tutankhamun was Kyphi, a luxurious and complex fragrance that was highly esteemed in ancient Egypt. Kyphi was a traditional Egyptian perfume, known for its rich, multi-layered scent profile. The recipe for Kyphi is detailed in historical texts and includes a blend of resins, spices, and aromatic plants. Common ingredients in Kyphi included myrrh, frankincense, and honey, which were combined with various other substances to create a deeply aromatic and soothing fragrance.
Historical Significance Kyphi was not only used for personal fragrance but also played a significant role in religious rituals and ceremonies. It was believed to have protective and purifying properties, making it a favored choice for offerings to deities and as part of funerary practices. The perfume's complex composition was intended to please the gods and accompany the deceased into the afterlife, symbolizing divine favor and eternal protection.
Cleopatra’s Kyphi
​Interestingly, the Kyphi recipe used by Tutankhamun closely resembles the perfume formula attributed to Cleopatra. This suggests that Kyphi was a prestigious and enduring fragrance favored by Egypt’s elite across different eras.

Kyphi - Cleopatra's perfume

Ancient texts describe Kyphi as a perfume crafted from a blend of myrrh, sweet rush, cypress grass, wine, honey, raisins, resin, and juniper, all ground together. Renowned as the most famous and well-documented scent from ancient Egypt, Kyphi was primarily used as incense. It was burned in large quantities by priests in Egyptian temples during religious ceremonies. The name "Kyphi" is derived from the Latin adaptation of the Greek transliteration of the Egyptian term "kapet," which initially referred to any substance intended for burning.
Kyphi served both aromatic and medicinal purposes. It was burned as incense during rituals and offered to deities. For personal use, it was diluted in oil, allowing its complex fragrance to be enjoyed directly by individuals. This multi-functional use highlights Kyphi's significance not only as a spiritual offering but also as a part of daily life in ancient Egyptian culture.

We found 4 recipes as below:
Rufus of Ephesus’ kyphi (via Damacrates, via Galen) first century AD - raisins with skin and pips removed 90 g ; wine ‘a little’ ; honey ‘sufficient’ ; ‘burnt resin’ 90 g ; ‘nails’ of bdellium 45 g ; camel grass 45 g ; sweet flag 33 g ; pure cyperus grass 11 g ; saffron 4 g; spikenard 11 g ; aspalathos 2 ‘semis’ ; cinnamon or cardamon ; 15 g ; good cassia 11 g
Dioscorides’ kyphi first century AD - ‘sun’ raisins 5.448 kg ; old wine 4.828 litres ; honey 1.136 litres ; myrrh 42 g ; pure resin 2.270kg ; plump juniper berries ; 0.284 litres ; sweet flag 0.454 litres ; camel grass 0.454litres ; aspalathos 0.454 litres ; cyperus grass 0.284 litres 
Manetho’s kyphi (via Plutarch) third century BC - raisins ; honey ; wine ; myrrh ; resin ; mastic ; bitumen of Judea ; cyperus grass ; aspalathos ; seseli ; rush ; lanathos ; large and small juniper berries (arkeuthos) ; sweet flag ; cardamom 
Kyphi Edfu 1 - raisins from the oases 3.3 litres ; wine 2.5 litres ; ‘fresh Horus eye’ i.e oasis
wine 2.5 litres ; ‘sweet Horus eye’ i.e honey 3.3 litres ; frankincense (sntr) 1,213 g ; myrrh (kar) 1,155 g ; mastic 273 g ; pine resin 273 g ; sweet flag 273 g ; aspalathos 273 g ; camel grass 273 g ; mint 273 g ; cyperus 1.5 litres ; juniper 1.5 litres ; pine kernels 1.5 litres ; peker 1.5 litres ; cinnamon 273 g ​

Hatshepsut's Perfume

Historical Background
​Hatshepsut, the granddaughter of powerful pharaohs, ascended to the throne after the death of her husband, reigning as Pharaoh of Egypt for 22 years. Her reign was marked by a period of peace and prosperity, during which Egypt flourished. However, following her death, Hatshepsut's legacy was subjected to severe posthumous scorn. Her image and inscriptions were mutilated, and many of her monuments were deliberately demolished. Despite this, Hatshepsut's contributions to Egyptian culture, including her passion for perfumes, have left a lasting impression.
Passion for Perfume
Hatshepsut was known for her love of perfumes and invested significant effort into securing aromatic herbs and materials from across the region. This dedication is exemplified by an expedition she dispatched to obtain rare and valuable aromatic substances. A notable discovery related to her perfume was a vial found near her mummy, which provided a tangible link to her aromatic preferences.
Researchers from Bonn University undertook the task of analyzing the residue from this vial to reconstruct the fragrance used by the queen. While the exact recipe remains unknown, it is believed that the perfume likely contained frankincense, a substance revered in ancient Egypt for its divine qualities. Frankincense was considered the "smell of the gods" and was commonly used in religious rituals and offerings.
Ingredients and Preparation
Although the precise composition of Hatshepsut's perfume is not documented, it is likely that the formula included other ingredients that were readily available in ancient Egypt. Egyptians had access to a variety of oils, which were integral to their perfumery. These included safflower oil, linseed oil, ben oil (from Moringa peregrina), balanos oil (from Balanites aegyptiaca), olive oil, almond oil, and sesame oil. These oils not only served as carriers for the aromatic compounds but also contributed their own unique scents and properties to the final perfume.
The combination of frankincense with these diverse oils would have created a complex and luxurious fragrance, reflecting Hatshepsut's status and her sophisticated taste in perfumes. Despite the loss and destruction of many records related to her reign, the efforts to recreate her perfume provide a fascinating glimpse into the sensory world of one of Egypt's most influential pharaohs.

Moringa in Ancient Perfume

Moringa Pterygosperma, known as the drumstick tree, is native to Egypt and continues to be cultivated there. However, Moringa oleifera, a closely related species, is the most widely grown in the genus. Commonly referred to as the drumstick tree or benzoil tree, Moringa oleifera is a fast-growing, drought-resistant plant native to tropical and subtropical regions of South Asia. This versatile tree’s leaves, bark, flowers, fruit, seeds, and root are utilized in medicine due to their extensive therapeutic properties, addressing ailments ranging from anemia and arthritis to diabetes and infections.
In ancient times, Moringa was also prized for its use in perfumery. The Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder, in his "Natural History" (NH XII 100-102), mentions this plant under the name "myrobalanum." According to Pliny, Moringa was cultivated not just for its medicinal benefits but also for its aromatic qualities. Perfume makers extracted an essential oil known as behen-oil from the shells of the Moringa fruit, a practice that highlights its value in ancient fragrance production. This oil was renowned for its pleasing scent and was a sought-after ingredient in luxury perfumes of the time.
Pliny also notes that medical practitioners would pound the Moringa kernels, gradually adding water to the mixture. This method likely extracted additional aromatic compounds, which could be used in both medicinal and cosmetic applications. The use of Moringa in ancient perfumes underscores its historical significance and its enduring legacy as a valuable ingredient in both traditional medicine and fragrance creation.

Susinum: The Royal Fragrance of Ancient Egypt

Susinum, a renowned perfume from ancient Egypt, is celebrated for its luxurious and exotic scent. Historical accounts suggest that Susinum was composed of a blend of prestigious ingredients, including the sacred blue lotus (blue water lily), rose, myrrh, saffron, cardamom, and cinnamon. Each component contributed to the fragrance's unique profile, making it a prized perfume among Egyptian royalty.
The blue lotus, a symbol of purity and rebirth in ancient Egyptian culture, formed the heart of Susinum. Its floral notes were complemented by the rich and soothing aroma of rose, enhancing the perfume's depth and complexity. Myrrh, with its warm, resinous scent, added a layer of opulence and spiritual significance, while saffron provided a rare and exotic touch, prized for its golden hue and distinctive aroma.
Cardamom and cinnamon, both valued for their spicy and invigorating qualities, completed the blend. Cardamom contributed a sweet, slightly citrusy note, while cinnamon added a warm, spicy undertone, creating a balanced and sophisticated fragrance.
Susinum was not merely a perfume but a statement of luxury and refinement. Its exotic, floral smell was designed to elevate the spirits and enchant those who experienced it. Additionally, Susinum was believed to possess aphrodisiac qualities, enhancing its allure and making it especially desirable in the royal courts of ancient Egypt.
As a scent truly fit for an Egyptian queen, Susinum exemplified the artistry and sophistication of ancient Egyptian perfumery. Its combination of sacred and luxurious ingredients made it a symbol of divine beauty and power, reflecting the grandeur of the pharaohs and their exalted status. The legacy of Susinum continues to capture the imagination, representing the opulence and cultural richness of ancient Egyptian civilization.

Dioscorides’ susinon- lilies 1,000 (x2) ; balanos oil 4,226 kg ; sweet flag 2,354 kg ; myrrh 140 g ; fragrant wine ; cardamom 1,530 kg ; cardamom 37 g (x3) ; best myrrh 270 g (x3)  ;crocus 37 g (x 3) ; cinnamon 281 g (x3) ; honey ; salt 

Pliny’s susinum- lilies ; oil of behen nut (balanos oil) ; sweet flag ; myrrh ; saffron ; (crocus) ; cinnamon ; honey ​

Metopion

Metopion was the ancient Egyptian term for the plant used to produce galbanum, which was also a key component in a highly valued perfume of the same name. This perfume was renowned not only for its fragrance but also for its potent medicinal and restorative properties. It was believed to have calming effects on the mind and to help relax the muscles, making it a favored choice for therapeutic purposes.
Historical sources commonly identify galbanum, cardamom, and myrrh as the primary ingredients in Metopion perfume. Galbanum, known for its resinous and slightly spicy aroma, provided a distinctive base, while cardamom added a warm, sweet note. Myrrh contributed a rich, resinous scent, enhancing the perfume's complexity and depth. Together, these components created a fragrance that was both soothing and invigorating, reflecting the sophisticated perfumery practices of ancient Egypt.

Dioscorides’ metopion- bitter almonds; omphacium (green olive oil); cardamom; Schoenus (camel grass); Calamus (sweet flag); honey; wine; myrrh; balsamum seed; galbanum; resin.
Pliny’s metopium- oil of bitter almonds; omphacium (green olive oil ); cardamom; rush (camel grass)
flag (sweet flag); honey; wine; myrrh; terebinth resin (turpentine resin); galbanum; seed of balsam (balsamum seed) ​

Juniper Berries

Greek Kyphi Recipes and Juniper Berries
Kyphi Recipes from Ancient GreeceKyphi, a revered incense in ancient Greece, had several formulations, including those described by Dioscorides. Dioscorides, a first-century Greek physician and pharmacologist, detailed a Kyphi recipe that included a range of aromatic ingredients. Among these, the terms arkeuthos and brathy appear. These words are translated as "juniper," referring to the berries of this plant. The differentiation into large and small berries, as suggested by these terms, underscores the specific and nuanced use of juniper in ancient perfumery.
In Dioscorides' time, Kyphi was highly esteemed for its complex, layered fragrance and its uses in both religious ceremonies and personal grooming. The inclusion of juniper berries, with their distinctive aroma, was integral to creating the sophisticated and varied scents of Kyphi.
Juniper in Egyptian Kyphi Recipes
The ancient Egyptian version of Kyphi also featured juniper berries, though described differently. Hieroglyphic recipes for Kyphi mention wan-seeds, and reliefs from the Old Kingdom depict the harvesting of what is referred to as w’n-berries. This term has been associated with juniper berries in the context of ancient Egyptian perfumery.
Archaeological findings support the use of juniper berries in ancient Egypt. In the tomb of Tutankhamun, actual berries of Juniperus oxycedrus and Juniperus excelsa were discovered, affirming their presence in Egyptian perfumery. Additionally, berries from Juniperus phoenicia have been found at various Egyptian sites spanning different periods, indicating their widespread use.
Medicinal and Ritualistic Uses
Beyond their role in perfumery, juniper berries were also valued for their medicinal properties in ancient Egypt. The ancient Egyptians utilized juniper for its therapeutic benefits, such as its ability to alleviate ailments and promote overall well-being. This dual purpose of juniper berries—both as a key ingredient in fragrant Kyphi and as a medicinal resource—highlights their significance in ancient Egyptian culture.
In summary, both Greek and Egyptian Kyphi recipes illustrate the integral role of juniper berries in ancient perfumery and medicine. Dioscorides' references to arkeuthos and brathy emphasize the nuanced use of juniper in Greek perfumes, while the Egyptian texts and archaeological findings underscore its broad application in both religious and therapeutic contexts.

Tisheps

The Perfume Laboratory at Edfu: Tisheps Unguent
The Temple of Horus at Edfu, one of the best-preserved temples of ancient Egypt, contains an intriguing artifact related to ancient perfumery. Within its sacred precincts lies a ‘laboratory’ dedicated to the preparation of perfumes and incenses. On the walls of this temple, hieroglyphic inscriptions detail the process for creating a specific type of unguent known as Tisheps, which is made from ab resin.
The Tisheps Recipe
The hieroglyphic recipe for Tisheps provides a fascinating glimpse into the meticulous process of ancient Egyptian perfumery. According to the inscriptions, the preparation of Tisheps unguent was an elaborate affair that required a total of 241 days. The process was divided into two distinct phases:

1. Preparation of the Base Material (1 Day): The initial step involved preparing the base material for the unguent. This phase was crucial for ensuring the proper foundation upon which the aromatic components would be added.
2. Maturation Period (240 Days): The second and most time-consuming phase involved allowing the mixture to mature undisturbed for 240 days. This long maturation period was essential for developing the complex and rich fragrance characteristic of Tisheps. The lengthy process highlights the importance the ancient Egyptians placed on the aging and refinement of their perfumes.

Comparison to Modern Cinnamon
Interestingly, many modern perfumers compare Tisheps to a locally found type of cinnamon. This comparison is based on the aromatic qualities attributed to the ancient unguent. Cinnamon, a spice with a warm, spicy, and sweet aroma, bears similarities to the descriptions of Tisheps, suggesting that this ancient perfume might have had a cinnamon-like scent.
The comparison underscores the connection between ancient and modern fragrance practices. While the exact composition and aroma of Tisheps remain a matter of historical reconstruction, the parallels with cinnamon provide valuable insights into the sensory experiences of ancient Egypt.
The perfume laboratory at the Temple of Horus at Edfu reveals the sophisticated and labor-intensive practices involved in ancient Egyptian perfumery. The detailed recipe for Tisheps unguent, requiring a lengthy maturation process, reflects the cultural significance placed on creating complex and refined fragrances. The comparison to modern cinnamon not only helps in visualizing the scent of Tisheps but also connects ancient Egyptian perfumery with contemporary practices, highlighting the enduring legacy of ancient fragrance traditions.

Min Unguent

Secret Min Unguent  was a revered preparation dedicated to the worship of the god Min-Amun, shrouded in secrecy and traditionally passed down by word of mouth. Its distinctive recipe combined aromatic herbs with precious minerals, creating an exotic and costly mixture.
The formulation for Min Unguent involved several steps and ingredients. First, start with 0.5 liters of prepared Tisheps pulp derived from the nedjem tree. Combine this with 910 grams of memen. Grind the mixture, sieve it, and stir overnight until dawn. Then, cook it slowly over a gentle fire, stirring until it solidifies. Let it rest for two days before heating it again.
After this initial process, add 0.5 liters of incense concentrate, bring it to a boil, and let it sit for another two days. Repeat the boiling process, then incorporate sweet-scented aromatic substances, although the specific details were lost as the accompanying image was not deciphered.
Further ingredients include 182 grams of dry antiu, 18 grams each of aspalathos, sweet geget wood, sweet flag, pine kernels, and juniper berries, along with 1 liter of sefy bitumen. Boil this mixture for two days, stirring with a spoon made of Christ-thorn wood. After this, let it rest for another two days.
Finally, heat it again and add 18 grams each of precious minerals: gold, silver, genuine lapis lazuli, red jasper, green feldspar, turquoise, faience, and carnelian. Test the consistency with a wooden stick. If too weak, bind it with additional dry antiu. If too strong, dilute it with more Tisheps pulp from the nedjem tree and adjust by heating it over a sycamore wood fire.

Ntyw: The Mystique of Ancient Aromatics

The Significance of Ntyw
In ancient Egyptian culture, Ntyw is believed to refer to Commiphora erythraea, commonly identified as the source of myrrh. This resin was highly esteemed and often associated with divine rituals and medicinal practices. Ntyw, sometimes translated as "myrrh," was a cornerstone of Egyptian perfumery and incense, reflecting its sacred status in religious and cultural contexts.
Historical Context and Confusion
Ntyw, mentioned in various ancient texts, has led to scholarly debate regarding its exact identification. While many scholars agree that Commiphora erythraea represents myrrh, there is also considerable discussion suggesting that it could be Frankincense. The confusion arises from the overlapping uses and descriptions of these resins in historical records.
Myrrh is derived from the Commiphora tree species, particularly Commiphora erythraea, and is characterized by its rich, warm, and slightly bitter scent. This resin was extensively used in religious ceremonies, embalming practices, and as a medicinal substance in ancient Egypt. The aroma of myrrh was considered both purifying and protective, making it an essential element in various sacred rituals.
Frankincense, on the other hand, comes from the Boswellia tree and is noted for its spicy, balsamic, and somewhat sweet fragrance. It was similarly valued in ancient times, especially in religious ceremonies, where it was used to honor deities and create a divine atmosphere.
Pliny’s “Scented Myrrh”
The Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder described "scented myrrh" in his works, contributing to the confusion between myrrh and frankincense. Pliny’s detailed accounts of aromatic substances, including their use in perfumery and incense, provide valuable insights into their perceived qualities and applications. However, his descriptions sometimes blur the distinctions between these resins, leading to differing interpretations by modern scholars.
Visual Identification
The accompanying image illustrates the two resins: Frankincense on the left and Myrrh on the right. The visual differentiation helps clarify their distinct appearances and can aid in understanding their respective roles in ancient Egyptian rituals and perfumery.
Frankincense is typically light yellow or pale in color with a somewhat translucent appearance, while Myrrh is darker, often reddish-brown, and more opaque. The contrasting colors and textures of these resins highlight their unique characteristics and their respective uses in ancient practices.
The debate over whether Ntyw refers to myrrh or frankincense underscores the complexity of ancient aromatic substances and their applications. While Commiphora erythraea is widely accepted as the source of myrrh in ancient Egypt, the potential overlap with frankincense reflects the intricate nature of historical perfume and incense practices. Understanding these distinctions enriches our appreciation of ancient Egyptian culture and its sophisticated use of aromatic materials.

Sntr: The Resins of Ancient Egypt

Understanding Sntr
Sntr is a term used in ancient Egyptian texts to describe a type of aromatic resin. Historical and botanical evidence suggests that Sntr was likely Terebinth resin. The Terebinth tree (Pistacia terebinthus) is known to grow indigenously in Egypt and was valued for its aromatic and medicinal properties. This resin was utilized in ancient Egypt for various purposes, including incense, perfumery, and religious rituals.
The Terebinth Tree and Its Resin
The Terebinth tree is a deciduous tree native to the Mediterranean region, including Egypt. It produces a resin that has a distinct, slightly sweet, and pine-like aroma. The Terebinth resin, also known as terebinth, was highly prized in ancient times for its fragrance and therapeutic qualities. It was used in incense blends and often mixed with other resins and aromatic substances to create complex and pleasing scents.
The resin from the Terebinth tree was valued not only for its aromatic properties but also for its medicinal benefits. It was used in traditional remedies for various ailments, showcasing its versatility and importance in ancient Egyptian practices.
Sntr and Its Relation to Myrrh and Frankincense
To better understand the role of Sntr, it is useful to compare it with Ntyw, which is thought to be myrrh. Myrrh is derived from the Commiphora tree and has a rich, warm aroma with slightly bitter notes. If we accept that Ntyw refers to myrrh, then Sntr, being a resin from the Terebinth tree, would likely be a type of Frankincense variety.
Frankincense is derived from the Boswellia tree and is characterized by its balsamic, spicy, and sweet fragrance. While Terebinth resin and Frankincense are different in their chemical composition and aroma, both were used similarly in ancient Egyptian rituals and perfumery. The use of these resins highlights the Egyptians' sophisticated approach to creating complex aromatic blends.
The Significance of Sntr
The significance of Sntr in ancient Egyptian culture is evident from its inclusion in incense recipes and religious ceremonies. Its aromatic qualities were integral to creating the ambiance for worship and offerings to the gods. Additionally, its medicinal properties would have contributed to its value in both daily life and spiritual practices.
Sntr, likely derived from the Terebinth tree, represents an important resin in the ancient Egyptian aromatic repertoire. If Ntyw is identified as myrrh, Sntr would correspond to a variety of Frankincense, emphasizing the Egyptians' intricate knowledge and use of resins. The distinction between these resins reflects the diversity of their applications in religious, medicinal, and everyday contexts, highlighting their central role in ancient Egyptian life.

Desert Date (Balanites aegyptiaca): Egyptian Balsam

Botanical Overview
Desert Date, scientifically known as Balanites aegyptiaca, is a spiny shrub or tree that can grow up to 10 meters tall. This resilient plant is widely distributed across the dry regions of Africa and South Asia. Known for its ability to thrive in arid environments, the Desert Date is an essential part of the ecosystem in these regions.
Historical and Cultural Uses
Balanos oil, derived from the seeds of the Desert Date, was utilized by the ancient Egyptians as a base for perfumes. This oil played a crucial role in the preparation of various fragrant products, serving as a carrier for essential oils and aromatic resins. Its significance is further highlighted by classical authors such as Dioscorides and Pliny, who noted its inclusion in Mendesium perfume, a well-known fragrance of antiquity.
The isd tree, mentioned in Egyptian texts, is believed to be another name for the Desert Date. The fruit of this tree has been discovered in archaeological sites in Egypt, with some of the earliest specimens found in the pyramid complex of Djoser at Saqqara. These findings underscore the historical importance of the Desert Date in ancient Egyptian society.
Medicinal and Nutritional Benefits
Beyond its use in perfumery, the Desert Date has been traditionally employed for its medicinal properties. The various parts of the plant are utilized in the treatment of a wide range of ailments, including: Jaundice, Intestinal worm infections, Wounds, Malaria, Syphilis, Epilepsy, Dysentery, Constipation, Diarrhea
Hemorrhoids, Stomach aches, Asthma, Fever
The medicinal value of the Desert Date is attributed to its rich chemical composition, which includes proteins, lipids, carbohydrates, alkaloids, saponins, flavonoids, and organic acids. These components contribute to its therapeutic effects, making it a versatile remedy in traditional medicine.
Balanites aegyptiaca, or Desert Date, has played a multifaceted role in ancient Egyptian culture and traditional medicine. As a base for perfumes, it contributed to the development of sophisticated fragrances used in religious and daily life. Its medicinal properties have made it a valuable plant in treating various health conditions, reflecting its significance in both historical and contemporary contexts. The discovery of its fruit in ancient Egyptian sites and its mention by classical authors further attest to its enduring legacy.

The Egyptian Perfume: A Highly Prized Fragrance

Longevity and Strength‘The Egyptian’ perfume was highly valued in ancient times, particularly among women, for its exceptional longevity and robust character. According to Theophrastus, a prominent Greek philosopher and botanist, this perfume was known for its durability, with its scent enduring much longer than many other fragrances. Theophrastus (CO X, 42) noted that ‘The Egyptian’ did not evaporate easily, which contributed to its lasting appeal. An anecdote from antiquity highlights its lasting power: a perfumer reported that ‘The Egyptian’ had remained potent for eight years in his shop (Theophrastus CO IX, 38). This remarkable longevity made it a sought-after choice for those who desired a perfume that could maintain its presence over extended periods.
Composition and Preparation
Theophrastus (CO VI, 28) provides insights into the complex composition of ‘The Egyptian’. The perfume was crafted from a blend of several high-quality ingredients, including cinnamon and myrrh, which were steeped in fragrant wine. This mixture was designed to counterbalance the perfume’s initially heavy and intense odor, making it more palatable and sweeter (Theophrastus CO X, 44). The steeping process helped to refine the scent, mitigating the strong qualities of the base ingredients and enhancing the overall fragrance profile.
Despite its desirable qualities, Theophrastus (CO VI, 30) described ‘The Egyptian’ as one of the most challenging perfumes to create. The intricate preparation process involved a mixture of numerous expensive components, which added to both the complexity and cost of production. This made ‘The Egyptian’ a luxury item, accessible only to those who could afford its high price.
Production and Distribution
The origins of ‘The Egyptian’ perfume are somewhat ambiguous. According to Manniche (1999:64-65), it is unclear whether ‘The Egyptian’ was always produced in Egypt or if it was also manufactured elsewhere. Manniche speculates that the perfume might have been made under license in Greece, given Theophrastus’s detailed knowledge of it. This possibility suggests that ‘The Egyptian’ had a broad distribution network, extending beyond its place of origin and reflecting its significant impact on ancient perfume culture.
​‘The Egyptian’ perfume was renowned for its exceptional durability and rich composition. Its complex preparation, involving expensive ingredients and extensive steeping, made it both a prized and challenging fragrance to produce. While its exact origins are debated, its influence and enduring appeal across ancient civilizations underscore its importance in the history of perfumery.

Mendesium: Historical Accounts and Ingredients

Descriptions by Dioscorides and Pliny the Elder
Two prominent historical figures, Pedanius Dioscorides and Pliny the Elder, provide valuable insights into the composition of Mendesium, a renowned ancient perfume.
Pedanius Dioscorides, a Greek physician and pharmacologist, offers a detailed description of Mendesium in his work. According to Dioscorides, the perfume was made from a blend of Behen oil, myrrh, wild cinnamon, and resin. Behen oil, derived from the seeds of the Moringa oleifera tree, was a crucial base for the perfume, lending it a rich, enduring quality. Myrrh, a gum resin obtained from the Commiphora tree, added a deep, aromatic note. Wild cinnamon contributed a warm, spicy aroma, while resin provided a grounding, stabilizing effect.
Pliny the Elder, another significant source of information, also described Mendesium in his writings. He noted that the perfume was composed of Behen oil, myrrh, and resin. Although his account lacks the specific mention of wild cinnamon, it is evident that Behen oil and myrrh were central to the perfume’s formulation, aligning with Dioscorides’s description. Pliny’s emphasis on these ingredients highlights their importance in creating the distinctive scent of Mendesium.
The Greek Physician Paul Aegineta’s AccountPaul Aegineta,
a Greek physician, provides a different perspective on Mendesium. He described the perfume as being made from oil from acorns, myrrh, cassia, turpentine, and cinnamon. Additionally, he noted that cardamom and galbanum were sometimes included. This formulation underscores the perfume’s versatility and its use not only as a fragrance but also for medicinal purposes. The inclusion of acorn oil, a less common ingredient, suggests a variation in the recipe that might have been specific to certain regions or periods. Cassia, closely related to cinnamon, added a sweet and spicy note, while turpentine contributed a fresh, resinous quality. Cardamom and galbanum, with their distinct aromatic properties, further enriched the perfume’s complex scent profile.
The Egyptian Version
Mendesium, named after the city of Mendes in the Egyptian Delta, was one of the most celebrated perfumes of ancient Egypt. The Egyptian version of Mendesium was renowned for its rich, multi-layered fragrance, which combined the warmth of myrrh, the spiciness of cinnamon, and the depth of resin. The perfume was used both as a luxurious scent and for therapeutic purposes, including the treatment of sore muscles. The historical accounts by Dioscorides, Pliny, and Aegineta reveal the intricate craftsmanship and diverse ingredients involved in creating this iconic ancient perfume.
Mendesium’s historical significance is highlighted by the detailed accounts of Dioscorides, Pliny the Elder, and Paul Aegineta. Each author’s description provides insights into the perfume’s complex composition and its esteemed place in ancient fragrance and medicine. The variations in recipes reflect the perfume’s evolution and its esteemed status in both Egyptian and broader ancient cultures.

Rinun (Latin) / Irinon (Greek) / Iris Perfume

Historical Context and Preparation
Rinun, also known as Irinon in Greek, refers to a luxurious perfume made from the iris root. This perfume was highly esteemed in ancient times for its distinct and captivating scent. The preparation of iris perfume has been well-documented by classical authors, including Theophrastus and Dioscorides, who provide valuable insights into its composition and preparation methods.
Theophrastus’s Method
According to Theophrastus (CO V.24), a superior iris perfume is achieved by using dried iris roots. He emphasizes that drying the roots results in better perfume quality compared to methods involving steeping the roots in liquid or subjecting them to fire. The drying process concentrates the essential oils and enhances the fragrance, making it more potent and enduring. This approach reflects Theophrastus’s preference for traditional methods that preserve the integrity of the aromatic compounds in the iris root.
Dioscorides’ Recipes
Dioscorides, a Greek physician and pharmacologist, offers two distinct recipes for preparing Irinon (iris perfume), highlighting the versatility and sophistication of ancient perfumery.
1. Dioscorides’ Irinon - First Recipe:

• Palm Tops: 2.948 kg
• Water: ¼ L
• Honey: Used to smear the basin
• Bruised Iris Roots: 6.356 kg
• Oil: 6.356 kg

In this recipe, palm tops are combined with water, while the basin is smeared with honey to enhance the adhesion of the aromatic substances. The bruised iris roots and oil are mixed together, creating a rich, aromatic blend. The large quantity of iris roots and oil suggests a perfume that is both potent and luxurious.
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2. Dioscorides’ Irinon - Second Recipe:

• Wood Balsam: 2.326 kg
• Oil: 31.92 kg
• Sweet Flag: 4.366 kg
• Myrrh (previously macerated in old fragrant wine): Just a little
• Bruised Iris Roots: Amount unspecified

This second recipe incorporates wood balsam, sweet flag, and a small quantity of myrrh, which has been macerated in old wine. The use of these ingredients alongside bruised iris roots creates a complex and layered fragrance profile. The substantial amount of oil indicates a perfume with a deep, rich base, complemented by the sweet and balsamic notes from the other ingredients.

Rinun or Irinon represents a sophisticated segment of ancient perfumery, with its formulation involving the careful use of iris roots and other complementary ingredients. The methods described by Theophrastus and Dioscorides highlight the importance of ingredient quality and preparation techniques in creating a perfume that was both enduring and evocative. The historical recipes underscore the complexity of ancient fragrance practices and the esteem in which iris perfume was held.

Myrtinum (Latin) / Mursinelaion (Greek) / Myrtle Perfume

​Historical Accounts and Ingredients
Myrtinum (Latin) and Mursinelaion (Greek) refer to a classic ancient perfume derived from myrtle. Both Dioscorides and Pliny the Elder provide detailed accounts of the ingredients and preparation methods for this fragrant concoction, highlighting its significance in ancient perfumery.

Dioscorides’ Mursinelaion
Dioscorides (OMM I, 48) describes Mursinelaion, an esteemed version of myrtle perfume. The formulation includes:

• Omphacium (Green Olive Oil): A base oil known for its light texture and rich, nourishing properties.
• Water: Used to dilute and balance the fragrance.
• Black Myrtle Leaves: These leaves impart a distinctive aromatic quality to the perfume.
• Pomegranate: Adds a fruity note and depth to the scent.
• Cypress: Contributes a woody, resinous aroma.
• Camel Grass: Introduces a unique, earthy fragrance element.

This combination of ingredients reflects Dioscorides’s approach to creating a complex, well-rounded perfume. The use of olive oil as a base ensures a smooth application and enhances the longevity of the scent, while the blend of aromatic elements provides a multifaceted fragrance profile.

Pliny the Elder’s Myrtinum
Pliny the Elder (NH XIII, 9) offers a different perspective on Myrtinum, detailing its composition as follows:

• Myrtle Oil: The primary ingredient, providing the foundational aroma of the perfume.
• Pomegranate Rind: Adds a tangy, citrusy undertone.
• Cypress: Infuses a woody, evergreen note.
• Cyprus: Likely a reference to a similar aromatic substance, enhancing the perfume’s complexity.
• Reed (Sweet Flag): Introduces a sweet, herbaceous quality.
• Mastic Oil: Adds a resinous, slightly piney fragrance.

Pliny (NH XIII, 10-11) also notes that more economical versions of myrtle oil included a blend of myrtle and laurel, combined with marjoram, lilies, fenugreek, myrrh, cassia, nard, rush, and cinnamon. This extended list of ingredients suggests a perfume that was both rich and accessible, with a broad range of aromatic components to create a layered and sophisticated scent.
Both Dioscorides and Pliny provide valuable insights into the composition and preparation of ancient myrtle perfumes. Mursinelaion and Myrtinum exemplify the complexity of classical perfumery, with each recipe offering a unique blend of ingredients that reflect the sophisticated tastes and practices of the time. Dioscorides’s formulation highlights the use of traditional botanical elements, while Pliny’s description includes both luxurious and more affordable variations, showcasing the versatility and appeal of myrtle-based perfumes in ancient cultures.

Cyprinum (Latin) / Kypros or Kuprinon (Greek) / Henna Perfume

Historical Context and Ingredients
Cyprinum (Latin) and Kypros or Kuprinon (Greek) refer to a prestigious ancient perfume made primarily from henna, a plant known for its aromatic and dyeing properties. Both Pliny the Elder and Theophrastus provide detailed accounts of the perfume’s composition and regional variations, reflecting its significance in classical perfumery.
Pliny the Elder’s Description of cyprinum
Pliny the Elder (NH XII, 109) details the quality and provenance of Cyprinum. According to him, the highest quality perfume was produced from henna grown at Canopus on the banks of the Nile. This region, known for its favorable climate, contributed to the superior quality of the henna used in the perfume. The second-best quality was derived from Ascalon in Judea, and the third-best came from the island of Cyprus. This hierarchical ranking underscores the importance of geographic origin in determining the quality of the ingredients used in ancient perfumery.
Pliny’s cyprinum - henna (called ‘cyprus’ here); onphacium (green olive oil); aspalathos ; sweet flag ; myrrh (sometimes added) ; cardamom ; southernwood; all-heal (sometimes added) 

Theophrastus’s Recipe
Theophrastus (CO V, 25-26) offers an alternative perspective on the preparation of Kypros. He specifies that the perfume is made from the flowers of the henna plant, contrasting with Pliny’s mention of seeds. This focus on the flowers highlights their delicate and fragrant nature, which was likely preferred for creating a refined and aromatic perfume. The use of flowers instead of seeds indicates a method aimed at producing a more nuanced and elegant scent profile.
Theophrastus’ kypros - henna ; onphacium (green olive oil) ; aspalathos ; cardamom 

Pliny’s Recipe for Cyprinum:
Pliny’s detailed accounts suggest that the preparation of Cyprinum involved extracting fragrance from henna plants grown in various regions. The process would typically include harvesting the henna flowers or leaves, followed by an infusion or distillation to capture their aromatic essence. The perfume was likely combined with other aromatic substances, although specific details of additional ingredients are not provided in his description.

Theophrastus’s Recipe for Kypros:
Theophrastus’s approach to Kypros emphasizes the use of henna flowers. The flowers were presumably processed through methods such as maceration or distillation to extract their essential oils. The resulting perfume would have been prized for its floral, exotic scent, reflecting the sophistication of ancient Greek and Roman fragrance practices.

Dioscorides’ kuprinon - henna 21.108 kg ; onphacium 12.712 kg ; (green olive oil) ; rain water ; aspalathos 2.497 kg  sweet flag 2.951 kg ; myrrh 454 g ; cardamom 1.614 kg ; old fragrant wine ; cinnamon (sometimes added)

Cinnamominum: The Ancient Cinnamon Perfume

Historical Overview
Cinnamominum is a notable ancient perfume distinguished by its use of cinnamon as a primary ingredient. Cinnamon, revered for its warm, spicy fragrance, was a highly prized substance in ancient perfumery. This perfume was favored for its rich, aromatic profile and its association with luxury and refinement.

Preparation Methods
​The preparation of Cinnamominum typically involved methods like infusion, where cinnamon and other components were steeped in oil or wine to extract their aromatic properties. Maceration, involving crushing and soaking the ingredients, was also used to blend and intensify the fragrance.
Cultural SignificanceIn ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome, Cinnamominum was a symbol of wealth and luxury. Beyond its use in personal fragrance, cinnamon was valued for its role in religious ceremonies and embalming processes, highlighting its esteemed place in ancient rituals and daily life.

The ingredients given by Dioscorides (OMM I, 74) and Pliny (NH XIII, 15) for Cinnamominum:
Dioscorides’s cinnamominum - balanos oil ; cinnamon ; carpobalsamum ; myrrh ; xylobalsanum (wood balsam) ; sweet flag ; camel grass ; honey 
Pliny‘s cinnamominum - balanos oil ; cinnamon ; balsam seeds ; myrrh ; wood balsam ; sweet flag ; camel grass seeds ; fragrant honey ​

Sampsuchinum / Amarakinum / Marjoram Perfume

Sampsuchinum (Latin) or Amarakinum (Greek) refers to an ancient perfume made primarily from marjoram, a herb prized for its aromatic and medicinal qualities. This perfume was known for its distinctive, sweet, and herbaceous scent, which made it a popular choice in antiquity.
Preparation Methods
The preparation of Sampsuchinum involved extracting the essential oils from marjoram and other ingredients through processes such as maceration or infusion. Marjoram leaves were typically soaked in oil or wine to capture their fragrant oils, which were then blended with other aromatic substances.
Cultural Significance
​In ancient Greece and Rome, Sampsuchinum was valued for both its pleasant fragrance and its medicinal properties. Marjoram was believed to have calming effects and was used in various treatments, making this perfume not only a luxury item but also a practical one in daily life and rituals.

Ingredients given by Dioscorides (OMM I, 58 and OMM I, 68) and Pliny (NH XIII, 10 and 14) for amarakinum and sampsuchinum.
Dioscorides amarakinum - amarakon ; oil of green olives or balanos ; wood balsam
(xylobalsamum) ; camel grass ; sweet flag ; amarakon ; costus ; amomum ; nard ; cinnamon (sometimes added) ; carpobalsamum ; myrrh ; honey ; wine ; nard 
Dioscorides sampsuchinum - myrtle leaves ; green olive oil ; sampsuchum ; cassia ; thyme ; southernwood ; bergamot mint flowers 
Pliny’s amarakinum - amarcus ; green olive oil ; chaste tree leaves ; all-heal ; honey ‘foreign substances’ ; salt 
​Pliny’s sampsuchinum - sampsuchum ; green olive oil ; sweet flag ​

Amarakinon / Sampsuchinon: Solid Perfume Worn as a Head Cone

Historical Context and Use
Amarakinon (Greek) and Sampsuchinon (Latin) refer to a distinctive type of solid perfume used in ancient times, often molded into a cone shape and worn on the head. This ancient fragrance, made primarily from marjoram and other aromatic substances, was not only a luxury item but also an integral part of personal adornment and ritual.
Preparation and Application
To create Amarakinon / Sampsuchinon, the aromatic ingredients were mixed with a binding agent, such as beeswax or solidified animal fats. The mixture was then molded into a cone shape, which could be worn on the head. This method allowed the perfume to be easily applied throughout the day as it warmed up with body heat, releasing its fragrance gradually.
Wearing the solid perfume as a head cone was both a practical and ceremonial practice. It kept the wearer enveloped in a pleasant aroma while also serving as a distinctive fashion statement. In ancient Egyptian and Greek cultures, this form of perfume was often associated with high status and was used in religious and social rituals.
Cultural Significance
​The use of solid perfume in the form of a head cone reflected the sophistication of ancient perfumery and its integration into daily life and rituals. The enduring fragrance of Amarakinon / Sampsuchinon symbolized luxury and personal care, demonstrating the high value placed on scent and personal grooming in ancient civilizations.

Marjoram, apart from being found in perfumed oils named amarakinon and sampsuchinon, is also found in solid perfumes (unguents) under the same two names.
Dioscorides’s amarakinon - fat (ox) 908 g ; wine 1.5 litres ; jujube seeds 1.816 kg ; bruised aspalathos 454 g ; marjoram flowers 1.816 kg ; myrrh (may be added) 28 g 
Dioscorides’s sampsuchinon - bruised marjoram 681 g (x2) ; fat (ox) 454 g ; wine ​

Ancient Persia / Mesopotamia / Israel / Jordon Perfume Recipes

Tapputi Belatekallim's Recipe

Tapputi Belatekallim from Babylon is often called the world’s first chemist and “nose” because she was an expert in making perfumes. She lived around 1200 BC and was known for creating scents for the king. Her work is recorded on an ancient cuneiform tablet, which is a kind of old writing.
One of her perfume recipes has survived through the centuries. It shows that she used a mix of flowers, oil, and calamus (a plant), along with cypress, myrrh, and balsam (resins). She didn’t just mix these ingredients together; she also added a solvent to help with the process. Tapputi was meticulous—she would distill and filter the perfume several times to make sure it was just right.
Her methods were advanced for her time and show how skilled she was. Thanks to her, we know a lot about early perfume-making and how it evolved. Tapputi’s recipes and techniques have left a lasting impact on the art of perfumery.

Mecca Myrrh or Balm of Mecca

Mecca Myrrh, also known as Balm of Mecca or by its scientific name Commiphora gileadensis (and commonly today as opobalsamum), was a highly prized plant in ancient times. It was grown in places like Ein Gedi and Jericho, which are in the region of modern-day Israel.
The plant was famous for its fragrant sap, which was used to make expensive perfumes. People really valued it because it had a strong, pleasant smell that made it perfect for high-end fragrances. But Mecca Myrrh wasn’t just about its scent; it was also known for its amazing medicinal properties. The sap, wood, bark, and seeds of the plant were all used for their health benefits.
In ancient times, people used it for various remedies and treatments. So, not only was it a luxury item in perfumes, but it also had practical uses in medicine. Today, the legacy of Mecca Myrrh lives on in the world of fragrances and natural remedies, reminding us of its rich history and value.

Balm of Gilead

Some experts think that the real source of Mecca Myrrh might have been a terebinth tree from the Pistacia genus. This tree produces a balsam that was used in ancient times to smoke cloths and had a truly amazing aroma.
The balsam from this tree was highly valued not just for its scent but also for its powerful medicinal properties. According to an old medical text called De Materia Medica, this balsam was believed to have a wide range of health benefits. It was thought to help with various issues like moving urine, aiding breathing and conception, and even treating serious conditions like pleurisy, pneumonia, and sciatica.
People also used it as a remedy for things like coughs, epilepsy, vertigo, asthma, and digestive problems. It was considered useful for expelling menstrual flow and was thought to act as an antidote for poison from aconite (a toxic plant) and snake bites.
The ancient belief in this balsam’s healing powers shows how much people relied on natural remedies and the high value they placed on plants with strong medicinal properties. Even though we might not use this balsam in the same way today, it’s clear that its rich history reflects its importance in both fragrance and medicine in ancient times.

Balm of Judea

Apobalsami Iudaicae, also known as Opobalsamum Iudaica or the balsam of Judea, is mentioned in an ancient text called Mulomedicina Chironis. This balsam has a distinct smell that combines floral and lilac notes with a leathery, balsamic scent.
Storax, a type of balsam, is what we’re talking about here. It has a really pleasant fragrance that many people find quite appealing. Besides smelling good, storax and its various forms—like resinoid, essential oil, and absolute—are used in many different ways.
In modern times, storax is used to flavor food, create perfumes, and even in pharmaceuticals. Its versatility comes from its unique and pleasant aroma, which adds a nice touch to products and treatments. So, whether it's in a fragrance, a flavoring, or a medicinal product, storax has been valued for its scent and uses for a long time.

Ancient India Perfume Recipes

Hindu literature has many mentions of perfumes made from things like sandalwood paste, flowers, agarwood, musk, civet, and vetiver. The Kamasutra by Vatsyayana even lists perfume-making as one of the 64 arts. Varahamihira, another ancient scholar, dedicated an entire chapter, Chapter 30, to “Gandhayukti,” which means the art of combining perfumes.
If you’re curious about these ancient recipes and want to experience them yourself, we invite you to visit our perfumery. You can also read more about Varahamihira’s work and the art of perfumes in detail here: Brihat Samhita by Acharya Varahmihir.

Brihat Samhita: Formula 1

Smaroddeepana (Kindler of Passion)

• Ingredients: Patra (Cassia), Turuska (Marigold juice), Vaala (Aporosa Lindleyana), Tagara (Valerian)
• Variation: Add costus for ‘Lotus scent’, sandalwood for ‘Champaca scent’, and nutmeg, cassia bark, and coriander for ‘Jasmine scent’.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 2

Champaca Flower Scent

• Ingredients: Manjishta (Rubia cordifolia), Vyagranakha (tree or cuttlefish bone), Nakha (shell perfume), woody cassia, costus, Bola (Commiphora myrrha)
• Preparation: Mix with sesame oil and heat in the sun.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 3

Royal Washing Water

• Ingredients: Woody cassia, costus (Saussurea lappa), Renuka (Piper aurantiacum), Nalika (Hibiscus cannabinus), Rasa or Bola (Commiphora myrrha), Tagara (Valeriana wallichii), Valaka (Aporosa lindleyana), Nagakesara (Mesua ferrea), Patra (Laurus cassia)

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 4

Fragrant Powder

• Ingredients: Woody cassia, Useera (Vetiveria zizanioides), Patra (Cinnamomum cassia), small cardamom
• Preparation: Grind into fine powder and mix with musk and camphor

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 5

Sandal and Spices Perfume

• Ingredients: Sandalwood (Santalum album), Jatiphala (nutmeg), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Satapushpa (anise), Kunduruka (Boswellia serrata), Priyangu (Aglaiya roxburghiana), Musta bulbs (Cyperus rotundus), Jatamamsi (Nardostachys jatamansi), Haritaki (Terminalia chebula), Ghana (Cyperus plant)

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 6

Bakula Scent

• Ingredients: A blend of various resins and spices, detailed mixings not specified but involves using the ingredients mentioned above for a rich fragrance.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 7

​Vasantika Scent

• Ingredients: Patra (Cassia), Madhuka (Madhuca indica), Jatiphala (Nutmeg), Chandana (Sandalwood), and flowers like Jasmine and Rose.
• Preparation: Mix and infuse in oil for a spring-like fragrance.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 8

Chandanika Perfume

• Ingredients: Chandana (Sandalwood), Jatiphala (Nutmeg), and a small quantity of flowers such as Champaca (Michelia champaca).
• Preparation: Blend these ingredients and distill with sesame oil.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 9

Kesarika Perfume

• Ingredients: Kesar (Saffron), Haritaki (Terminalia chebula), Jatamamsi (Nardostachys jatamansi), and a small amount of Cardamom.
• Preparation: Mix and infuse with coconut oil for a rich, exotic scent.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 10

Nalpaka Scent

• Ingredients: Nalika (Hibiscus cannabinus), Patra (Cassia), and a mix of spices including Coriander and Cardamom.
• Preparation: Crush and mix, then combine with a carrier oil like sesame.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 11

Sampadika Perfume

• Ingredients: Sampadika (A type of aromatic plant), Jatiphala (Nutmeg), and Sandalwood (Chandana).
• Preparation: Infuse the mixture with a base oil and allow it to mature in the sun.​

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 12

Sugandha Scent

• Ingredients: Sugandha (a fragrant plant), Jatamamsi (Nardostachys jatamansi), and a bit of Camphor.
• Preparation: Blend with a neutral oil and let it age for a complex fragrance.​

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 13

Kalkana Perfume

• Ingredients: Kalkana (an aromatic substance), Haritaki (Terminalia chebula), and Jatiphala (Nutmeg).
• Preparation: Mix with a suitable base oil, then let it infuse and age.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 14

Kunduru Scent

• Ingredients: Kunduruka (Boswellia serrata), Manjishta (Rubia cordifolia), and Tagara (Valeriana wallichii).
• Preparation: Combine and process with oil, then expose to sunlight for enhanced fragrance.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 15

Vishwadeepa Perfume

• Ingredients: Vishwadeepa (a type of resin), Haritaki (Terminalia chebula), and Sandalwood (Chandana).
• Preparation: Blend and distill to create a universally pleasing scent.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 16

Gandhadruma Scent

• Ingredients: Gandhadruma (a fragrant tree), Manjishta (Rubia cordifolia), Jatamamsi (Nardostachys jatamansi), and Patra (Cassia).
• Preparation: Blend these ingredients with sesame oil and age in the sun.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 17

Rakta Scent

• Ingredients: Rakta (a type of red resin), Jatiphala (Nutmeg), and Tagara (Valeriana wallichii).
• Preparation: Combine and mix with a base oil for a rich, warm fragrance.​

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 18

Chandana-Rasa Perfume

• Ingredients: Chandana (Sandalwood), Rasa (another resin), and a mix of aromatic spices like Cardamom and Cloves.
• Preparation: Infuse in coconut oil and allow to mature for a complex scent.​

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 19

Kushtha Perfume

• Ingredients: Kushtha (Saussurea lappa), Jatiphala (Nutmeg), and Vetiver (Useera, Vetiveria zizanioides).
• Preparation: Mix with sesame oil and expose to sunlight for enhanced fragrance.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 20

Hemasphuta Scent

• Ingredients: Hemasputa (a type of resin), Jatamamsi (Nardostachys jatamansi), and Patra (Cassia).
• Preparation: Blend and mix with a base oil like coconut oil, then age.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 21

Aushadha Scent

• Ingredients: Aushadha (medicinal herbs), Sandalwood (Chandana), and Haritaki (Terminalia chebula).
• Preparation: Combine with a neutral oil and allow to infuse.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 22

Kuntala Scent

• Ingredients: Kuntala (a fragrant plant), Jatiphala (Nutmeg), and Tagara (Valeriana wallichii).
• Preparation: Mix and age in sesame oil for a unique fragrance.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 23

Gandhakamal Scent

• Ingredients: Gandhakamal (a fragrant flower), Jatamamsi (Nardostachys jatamansi), and Patra (Cassia).
• Preparation: Blend with coconut oil and let it mature.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 24

Ankurika Perfume

• Ingredients: Ankurika (a type of aromatic plant), Manjishta (Rubia cordifolia), and Jatiphala (Nutmeg).
• Preparation: Infuse with a carrier oil and expose to sunlight.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 25

Kalpavriksha Scent

• Ingredients: Kalpavriksha (a mythical plant with aromatic properties), Haritaki (Terminalia chebula), and Tagara (Valeriana wallichii).
• Preparation: Combine and age in sesame oil for a long-lasting scent.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 26

Nadika Scent

• Ingredients: Nadika (a fragrant plant), Jatamamsi (Nardostachys jatamansi), and Patra (Cassia).
• Preparation: Combine and infuse with sesame oil, then allow it to age.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 27

Kshiraka Scent

• Ingredients: Kshiraka (a type of aromatic milk), Manjishta (Rubia cordifolia), and Jatiphala (Nutmeg).
• Preparation: Blend with a base oil and expose to sunlight to develop the fragrance.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 28

Pattika Scent

• Ingredients: Pattika (a resinous substance), Haritaki (Terminalia chebula), and Tagara (Valeriana wallichii).
• Preparation: Mix with coconut oil and let it mature.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 29

Chandrakanta Perfume

• Ingredients: Chandrakanta (a fragrant plant), Jatamamsi (Nardostachys jatamansi), and Chandana (Sandalwood).
• Preparation: Infuse with sesame oil and expose to sunlight for an enriched scent.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 30

Padhma Scent

• Ingredients: Padhma (Lotus), Jatiphala (Nutmeg), and Manjishta (Rubia cordifolia).
• Preparation: Blend with a carrier oil and let it mature.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 31

Rakta-Chandanika Perfume

• Ingredients: Rakta (red resin), Chandana (Sandalwood), and Jatiphala (Nutmeg).
• Preparation: Mix and infuse in coconut oil for a deep, rich fragrance.

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Brihat Samhita: Formula 32

Keshava Scent

• Ingredients: Keshava (a type of aromatic herb), Jatamamsi (Nardostachys jatamansi), and Patra (Cassia).
• Preparation: Blend with sesame oil and let it age in the sun.

Brihat Samhita: Formula 33

Bharadvaja Scent

• Ingredients: Bharadvaja (a fragrant herb), Manjishta (Rubia cordifolia), and Haritaki (Terminalia chebula).
• Preparation: Infuse with a base oil and allow to mature.

Brihat Samhita: Formula 34

Sushumna Scent

• Ingredients: Sushumna (a type of aromatic plant), Jatiphala (Nutmeg), and Tagara (Valeriana wallichii).
• Preparation: Combine with sesame oil and age.

Kalpa Sutra of BHADRABAHU: Perfume recipe mention-1

Flowers of 5 different colors, the linest aloe-wood, and License, and ignited ambergris. Sprinkled with saffron, and Bcented with sandal-wood.

Kalpa Sutra of BHADRABAHU: Perfume recipe mention- 2

Fragrant essences of plants- Candana (sandalwood), Agaru (Aquilaria Agallocha), Inguidi (Terminala Catappe), Kasturi (musk), Kunkunna (Saffron)

Kaushika sutra : Formula

A paste from Kushta, (Sauaurrea lappa) and  Tagara  (Valeriana wallichii DC.) with other herbs is mentioned as a good paste to to anoint the Partner

Ramayan: Perfume references

In cremation of Dasaratha’s dead body, Candana (Sandal wood), Sarala (Pinus  roxberghii Sarg), Padmaka (Prunuscerasoides D.Don),  Agaru (Aquilaria agallocha Roxb.), Devadaru (Cedrus deodara (Roxb.) Loud) etc. were used.

Mahabharata: 3 Perfume recipes

1. Dhupa (fumigation) using aromatic resins like Guggulu (Commiphora mukul) and Shallaki (Boswellia serrata) is considered especially pleasing to gods and goddesses.
   
2. Dhupa produced by burning the leaves of trees such as Sara (Pinus roxburghii), Agaru (Aquilaria agallocha), and Shallaki (Boswellia serrata) is favored by Yakshas and Rakshasas.
   
3. Kritrima (artificial) Dhupa, made from fermented substances like molasses, is preferred by Daanavas (demons), Bhutas (spirits), and humans.
   

Brahma kamal - Rare, Legendary & Mythological plant of India​

The Brahma Kamal, named after Brahma, the God of Creation, is believed to bloom only once a year, typically between July and September. Its large, pure white, star-shaped flowers emit a delightful fragrance to attract pollinators by moonlight or starlight. The bloom begins after sunset, around 7 p.m., and takes approximately two hours to reach full bloom, expanding to about 8 inches in diameter. The flower remains open throughout the night.

Krishna kamal (Passion Flower) - Rare, Legendary & Mythological plant of India​

The Krishna Kamal flower is intricate, measuring about 10 cm in diameter. It features five sepals and petals that resemble each other, in a whitish color, crowned by a corona of blue or violet filaments. The flower also has five greenish-yellow stamens and three purple stigmas. According to the Hindu epic Mahabharata, the flower holds symbolic meaning: the approximately 100 blue petals represent each of the Kauravas; the five yellow petals in the center symbolize the five Pandavas; the central green bulb represents Draupadi, the queen of the Pandavas; the three filaments correspond to the holy trinity of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva; and the radial design in the center signifies the Sudarshan Chakra of Lord Krishna.

Vishnu Dharmottara Purana - 450-650 A.D - Gandhataila

In the Vishnu Dharmottara Purana (circa 450-650 A.D.), the preparation of Gandhataila (fragrant oil) includes a variety of ingredients known for their aromatic and therapeutic properties. Here is a list of the components mentioned:

• Til Beej (Sesame Seeds) – Sesamum indicum
• Cow’s Milk
• Mulethi (Licorice) – Glycyrrhiza glabra
• Valak (Iruvale) – Coleus vettiveroides
• Vetiver (Ushira or Khas) – Vetiveria zizanoides
• Manjistha – Rubia cordifolia
• Mishi (Indian Dill) – Anethum sowa
• Mustak (Nut Grass) – Cyperus rotundus
• Kushta (Indian Costus Root) – Saussurea lappa
• Bala – Sida cordifolia
• Atibala – Abutilon indicum
• Mahabala
• Agaru (Agarwood) – Aquilaria agallocha
• Kesar (Saffron) – Crocus sativus
• Safed Chandan (White Sandalwood) – Santalum album
• Sariva – Hemidesmus indicus
• Sarala (Chir Pine) – Pinus roxburghii
• Raal (Sarja Rasa) – Vateria indica (Resin)
• Devdaru (Deodar Cedar or Himalayan Cedar) – Cedrus deodara
• Padmakadi Gana
• Eladi Gana
• Shaileyam – Parmelia perlata
• Rasna – Pluchea lanceolata
• Shalaparni – Desmodium gangeticum
• Lodhra – Symplocos racemosa
• Kasheruk – Scirpus grossus
• Tejpata (Indian Bay Leaf) – Cinnamomum tamala
• Durva (Bermuda Grass) – Cynodon dactylon

These ingredients are used to create a highly valued fragrant oil, each contributing unique properties to the final blend.

Baburnama Zafarnama

Baburnama Zafarnama etc -14-15th century A.D - lists detailed perfume names and the way there were dispensed throughout the palace. We are working to find their recipes

Ain-e-Akbari -16th century A.D - lists detailed perfume names with prices. We are working to find their recipes

In the Ain-e-Akbari (16th century A.D.), a detailed list of perfumes with their names and prices is provided. We are currently working to uncover their recipes. Here is a summary of the listed perfumes and their costs:

• Ambar i Ashhab: 1 to 3 Muhurs per tdlah
• Zab6d (Dvet): 2 to 1 if per tdlah
• Musk: 1 to 4 j per tdlah
• Ugum Aloes (Hind Agar): 2 i2 to 1 M per sSr
• Chuwah (Distilled Wood of Aloes): ^R.Xol R. per tdlah
• Gaurah: 3 to 5 R per tdlah
• Bhimsini Camphor: 3 i^ to 2 M per tdlah
• Mid: 1 to 3 i? per tdlah
• Za'farlm: 12 to 22 R per sSr
• Za'farlm i Kamandi: 1 to 3 if per tdlah
• Za'farlm (from Kashmir): 8 to 12 i? per tdlah
• Sandalwood: 32 to 55 i2 per man
• Nishidi i Mushk: 3 to 12 if per tdlah
• Kalanbak (Calembic): 10 to 40 ^ per man
• Silas: 3 to 6 R per tdlah
• Ambar i Lfidan: 1 J to 4 i^ per tdlah
• Kifur i Chfnah: 1 to 2 i? per tdlah
• 'Araq i Fitnah: 1 to 3 R per bottle
• 'Araq i Bed i Mushk: 1 to 4 i? per bottle
• Rosewater: 1 to 1 ft per bottle
• 'Araq i Bahar: 1 to 5 i? per bottle
• 'Araq i Chambelf: 1 to 1 R per bottle
• Violet Root: 1 to 1 ft per tdlah
• Azfiur Uftib: 1 J to 2 i? per tdlah
• Barg i Maj (from Gujarat): 1 to 1 ^ per tdlah
• Bogandh Gugal: 10 to 13 R per tdlah​

Ancient Greek Perfume Recipes

​The goddess of love, beauty, and desire, Aphrodite was also mistress of the seductive arts, perfume. Theophrastus book On Odours​ give us even more insight into their ancient recipes and rituals. Some of them are here.

Linear A tablet HT 87- In Mycenaean

The Linear A tablet HT 87, from the ancient Minoan civilization, has intrigued scholars due to its enigmatic script and possible implications for early Greek language and culture. This tablet’s translation remains contested among researchers. Most agree that it likely represents an archaic proto-Greek term, potentially related to the concept of "perfumed." The most accepted translation suggests it refers to a "perfumed unguent," with one part of the composition being saffron. This implies that the tablet might be documenting an ancient recipe for a scented ointment. The presence of saffron, a valuable and fragrant spice, points to the significance of luxury and ritualistic use in Minoan and early Greek society. Although the exact meaning of the inscription is still debated, the tablet provides valuable insights into the sensory and cultural practices of the time, reflecting an early use of perfumed substances in daily and ceremonial life.

Megaleion

Megaleion was a complex and esteemed perfume created by the perfumer Megallus, renowned for its elaborate and labor-intensive preparation. Highly valued in both Egyptian and Greek cultures, Megaleion was composed of a rich blend of myrrh, cinnamon, and Cassia, each ingredient chosen for its aromatic and therapeutic properties. This potent perfume was not only prized for its fragrance but also for its medicinal benefits, including reducing skin inflammation and aiding in wound healing.
In ancient Egyptian practice, perfumes like Megaleion were used in the form of solid cones of cream applied to the head. As the cream melted, it would gradually perfume the entire body. The Greeks, on the other hand, applied such perfumes to their feet and breasts, believing that scent applied to the feet would envelop the body and rise to the nose, while application to the breasts, thought to be the seat of the heart, would provide a more profound, intimate effect.

Mendesium or Mendesian (Greek)

Mendesium or Mendesian is a historically significant perfume noted by prominent authors such as Pedanius Dioscorides, Pliny the Elder, and Paul Aegineta. This ancient fragrance, named after the Egyptian city of Mendes (modern-day Tell el-Retaba in the Delta), was renowned in both Egyptian and Greek cultures.
Pedanius Dioscorides, a first-century Greek physician and pharmacologist, detailed the ingredients of Mendesium as including Behen oil, derived from the Moringa oleifera tree, myrrh, wild cinnamon, and resin. This combination highlights the perfume's rich, exotic composition, combining aromatic oils and resins.
Pliny the Elder, another notable figure of antiquity, mentioned a similar formulation, noting that Mendesium comprised Behen oil, myrrh, and resin. His account underscores the use of high-quality ingredients and the emphasis placed on luxurious, complex scents.
Greek physician Paul Aegineta offered a slightly different recipe, adding acorn oil, cassia, turpentine, and cinnamon to the base of Behen oil and myrrh. He also noted the occasional inclusion of cardamom and galbanum. Mendesium was not only valued for its fragrance but also used therapeutically, particularly for sore muscles.
The Greek version of Mendesium was likely adapted from the original Egyptian formulation. The perfume's association with Mendes, a city famed for its aromatic traditions, suggests that the Greeks imported and adapted this prized Egyptian scent. Mendesium thus represents a fusion of Egyptian and Greek perfumery, reflecting both the ancient trade and cultural exchange of luxury goods.

Stakte

Stacte (Greek: στακτή, staktē) and nataph (Hebrew: נָטָף, nataf) refer to a specific component of the Ketoret, the sacred incense used in Solomon's Temple, as described in Exodus. The precise identity of Stacte has been debated, with some suggesting it might be storax gum. However, it is more commonly understood to be a high-quality myrrh. Pliny the Elder noted that Stacte is an exudate from myrrh trees before any incision is made, describing it as superior to other types of myrrh.
In modern perfumery, Stacte is recreated by infusing bruised myrrh in oil and combining it with benzoin. This method enhances the myrrh's rich, warm, and sweet aroma, capturing the essence of ancient Stacte. This contemporary approach maintains the historical reverence of Stacte while adapting it for modern use, preserving its revered scent profile.

Megalium (Latin)/ Megaleion (Greek)

Manniche (1999:76 and 148) states that the origin of this perfume and of its name is unknown. She adds that there is nothing specifically linking this perfume to Egypt. The ingredients are, however, among those favoured by the Egyptians in their scented preparations.
Theophrastus’s megaleion - balanos oil ; burnt resin ; cassia ; cinnamon ; myrrh 
Pliny ’s megaleion- behen nut oil (balanos oil) ; resin ; balsam ; reed (sweet flag) ; rush (camel grass) ; wood balsam ; cassia 
Dioscoride’s megaleion - balanos oil ; resin ; cinnamon ; sweet flag ; camel grass ; wood balsam ; costos ; carpobalsamum ; myrrh ; nard ; amomum ​

Ancient China Perfume Recipes

Ancient Chinese perfumery, rich in tradition and history, featured a variety of perfumes and fragrance preparations. While specific recipes from ancient China are not as well-documented as those from other ancient cultures, historical texts and records provide insight into some of the prominent fragrances and their formulations. The significant advancements in Tang shipbuilding and navigation allowed aromatics that had previously arrived overland to reach China via sea routes. Eighth- and ninth-century records mention "perfume merchants" who sailed the Nanhai, or "Southern Seas" of Southeast Asia, in search of resins, sandalwood, aloeswood, camphor, and myrrh, among other substances. Large quantities of these precious perfumes were destined for the port of Canton (Guangzhou), which was renowned as one of the world's major incense markets. Here’s a list of notable perfume names and formulas from ancient China:

Common Ingredients in Ancient Chinese Perfumes

Common Ingredients in Ancient Chinese Perfumes

• Sandalwood (檀香, tánxiāng): Used for its rich, woody aroma.
• Musk (麝香, shèxiāng): Valued for its strong, earthy scent.
• Amber (琥珀, hǔpò): Used for its warm, resinous fragrance.
• Agarwood (沉香, chénxiāng): Highly prized for its deep, complex aroma.
• Clove (丁香, dīngxiāng): Adds a spicy, warm note.
• Cinnamon (肉桂, ròuguì): Provides a sweet, spicy fragrance.

Perfumes and Fragrance Preparations

Ming Xiang (名香) - "Famous Fragrance":

• Ingredients: Sandalwood, musk, amber, and other aromatic herbs.

Xiang Fen (香粉) - "Fragrant Powder":

• Ingredients: Sandalwood, clove, cinnamon, and sometimes a base of rice flour or other powders.

Xiang Shui (香水) - "Fragrant Water":

• Ingredients: Distilled water infused with aromatic herbs such as jasmine, rose, or chrysanthemum.

Xiang Lu (香露) - "Fragrant Dew":

• Ingredients: A mixture of flower petals like rose or jasmine, distilled in water.

Yu Lan (玉兰) - "Magnolia Perfume":

• Ingredients: Magnolia flowers, sandalwood, and sometimes musk or amber.

Wu Wei (五味) - "Five Flavors":

• Ingredients: A complex blend often including sandalwood, patchouli, clove, and cinnamon.

​​Cheng Xiang (沉香) - "Agarwood Perfume":

• Ingredients: Agarwood (aloeswood), sandalwood, and sometimes mixed with musk and spices.

Mu Xiang (木香) - "Wood Fragrance":

• Ingredients: Sandalwood, pine, and cedarwood.

Lan Xiang (兰香) - "Orchid Fragrance":

• Ingredients: Orchid extracts, sandalwood, and sometimes mixed with other floral essences.

Zhen Xiang (珍香) - "Precious Fragrance":

• Ingredients: Rare and valuable aromatic ingredients such as agarwood and musk, often used in ceremonial contexts.

Miao Xiang (苗香) - "Herb Fragrance":

• Ingredients: A blend of local herbs, including mint, sage, and thyme.

Ancient Rome Perfume Recipes

During the Roman Empire, perfumes were produced extensively. Physician Dioscorides (40-90 A.D.) compiled recipes for aromatic oils used in both perfumes and medicines, while Pliny the Elder (23-79 A.D.) detailed the process of making these fragrances. According to Pliny, perfumes and ointments needed both a liquid and a solid component, and optional coloring agents could enhance their appearance.
Romans commonly used oils from sesame, horseradish, almonds, and especially olives—preferably from green olives for better resistance to oxidation. However, the recipes from classical authors were often vague about proportions and procedures.
Perfumes were used in daily life and special occasions such as funerals, where incense was required. They were also used in embalming practices. After cremation, the bones and ashes were kept in urns with expensive perfumes, which were stored in metal, glass, ceramic, or rock containers, reflecting the deceased's wealth and the support from their loved ones.

Pliny the Elder (Roman, A.D. 23–79) :

In his Natural History, Pliny the Elder (A.D. 23–79) noted that the scent of some plants, like violets, is more intense from a distance but diminishes as one gets closer. For example, a freshly picked rose has a strong scent from afar, while a withered rose's fragrance is weaker up close. He observed that perfumes are generally stronger in spring and in the morning, becoming less potent as the day progresses. Additionally, young plants produce less fragrance compared to older ones, with the strongest scents emerging from plants at their peak maturity. Roses and saffron, for instance, have a more intense aroma when harvested in good weather, and flowers in warm climates are typically more fragrant than those in cooler regions. However, in Egypt, flowers have a diminished scent due to the misty, dew-laden atmosphere from the extensive river systems.
Pliny also mentioned that certain perfumes, such as those made from sweet marjoram, spikenard, and megaleion, can cause headaches, particularly in cheaper varieties like bay perfume. Conversely, lighter scents such as rose and kypros are better suited for men, with lily perfume also being a suitable choice.
Pliny used systematic methods to study and understand the properties and sources of perfumes.
​

Roman Perfume Recipe

1. Aqua Maris (Sea Water)Description: A fresh, aquatic fragrance reminiscent of the sea. Ingredients:

• Rosewater: 1 oz (30 ml) - for a delicate floral note.
• Sea Salt: 1/4 tsp - to evoke the essence of the sea.
• Rosemary Essential Oil: 5 drops - for a fresh and invigorating scent.
• Lemon Essential Oil: 3 drops - to add a citrusy freshness.

2. Rosatum (Rose Perfume)Description: A rich and floral fragrance centered around roses. Ingredients:

• Rose Essential Oil: 15 drops - the primary floral scent.
• Jasmine Absolute: 5 drops - for a deep, sweet floral note.
• Sandalwood Essential Oil: 5 drops - to add a creamy, woody base.
• Almond Oil: 1 oz (30 ml) - carrier oil.

3. Myrra (Myrrh Perfume)Description: A warm, resinous perfume with earthy undertones. Ingredients:

• Myrrh Resin: 1 tsp (ground) - for its rich, balsamic scent.
• Frankincense Resin: 1 tsp (ground) - to complement the myrrh.
• Olive Oil: 2 oz (60 ml) - carrier oil.
• Rosewater: 1/2 oz (15 ml) - to balance the intensity.

4. Unctum (General Scented Ointment)Description: A versatile, luxurious perfume. Ingredients:

• Beeswax: 1 oz (30 g) - as a base.
• Rose Essential Oil: 10 drops - for a floral scent.
• Lavender Essential Oil: 10 drops - for calming notes.
• Cypress Essential Oil: 5 drops - to add an earthy aroma.
• Almond Oil: 2 oz (60 ml) - to melt with beeswax.

5. Amoenitas (Pleasant Charm)Description: A balanced perfume with floral and citrus notes. Ingredients:

• Neroli Essential Oil: 10 drops - for a sweet, citrus floral note.
• Bergamot Essential Oil: 5 drops - to add a fresh, uplifting scent.
• Vetiver Essential Oil: 5 drops - for an earthy base.
• Jojoba Oil: 1 oz (30 ml) - carrier oil.

6. Cinnamomum (Cinnamon Perfume)Description: A spicy, warm fragrance. Ingredients:

• Cinnamon Essential Oil: 8 drops - for the primary spicy note.
• Clove Essential Oil: 5 drops - to enhance the warmth.
• Cardamom Essential Oil: 3 drops - to add a sweet, aromatic touch.
• Fractionated Coconut Oil: 1 oz (30 ml) - carrier oil.

7. Osmanthe (Fragrant Flower)Description: A floral perfume featuring a unique flower scent. Ingredients:

• Osmanthus Absolute: 10 drops - for a sweet, apricot-like floral note.
• Ylang-Ylang Essential Oil: 5 drops - to complement with a rich floral aroma.
• Patchouli Essential Oil: 3 drops - for an earthy base.
• Sweet Almond Oil: 1 oz (30 ml) - carrier oil.

8. Loticus (Water Perfume)Description: A clean, refreshing fragrance. Ingredients:

• Water Jasmine Essential Oil: 10 drops - for a light, watery floral note.
• Cucumber Essential Oil: 5 drops - for a fresh, green scent.
• White Tea Extract: 1/2 oz (15 ml) - to enhance the freshness.
• Grapeseed Oil: 1 oz (30 ml) - carrier oil.

Ancient Japan Perfume Recipes

Ancient Japanese perfumes, were primarily incense (kō), and they were deeply rooted in ceremonial and daily practices. The recipes for these fragrances often involved complex blends of natural ingredients. Here’s a list of some traditional Japanese perfumes and their details, based on historical practices and ingredients:

Japanease Perfume Recipe

1. Kō (香)
Ingredients:

• Agarwood (Jinkō, 沈香): 1 oz (30 g) - provides a rich, woody base.
• Sandalwood (Shō, 檀香): 1 oz (30 g) - adds a soft, creamy note.
• Cloves: 1/2 tsp - for a warm, spicy touch.
• Cinnamon: 1/2 tsp - to enhance the warmth.

2. Kōdō (香道)
Ingredients:

• Agarwood (Jinkō): 2 oz (60 g)
• Sandalwood: 1 oz (30 g)
• Frankincense: 1/2 oz (15 g)
• Myrrh: 1/2 oz (15 g)
• Benzoin Resin: 1/2 oz (15 g)

3. Shōkō (硝香)
Ingredients:

• Sandalwood: 1 oz (30 g)
• Agarwood: 1/2 oz (15 g)
• Star Anise: 1/2 tsp - for a subtle spice note.
• Cinnamon: 1/2 tsp
• Cedarwood: 1/2 oz (15 g)

4. Jinkō (沈香)
Ingredients:

• Agarwood: 2 oz (60 g)
• Sandalwood: 1 oz (30 g)
• Cardamom: 1/4 tsp - to add a hint of sweetness.
• Cloves: 1/4 tsp

5. Byōboku (白木)
​Ingredients:

• White Cedar Wood: 2 oz (60 g)
• Sandalwood: 1 oz (30 g)
• Benzoin Resin: 1/4 oz (7.5 g)
• Ginger: 1/4 tsp - for a fresh, spicy note.

6. Kōboku (香木)
Ingredients:

• Sandalwood: 1 oz (30 g)
• Agarwood: 1 oz (30 g)
• Cypress: 1/2 oz (15 g)
• Frankincense: 1/2 oz (15 g)

7. Kōshō (香粧)

​Ingredients:

• Rose Petals: 1/2 oz (15 g)
• Lavender: 1/2 oz (15 g)
• Sandalwood Powder: 1/2 oz (15 g)
• Cinnamon Powder: 1/4 tsp

8. Sekkō (石香)
​Ingredients:

• Alum (Potassium Aluminum Sulfate): 1 oz (30 g)
• Benzoin Resin: 1/4 oz (7.5 g)
• Sandalwood: 1/4 oz (7.5 g)
• Cinnamon Powder: 1/4 tsp​

​​Join Scentopia, Sentosa's latest tourist attraction wonderful orchid scent crafting, fragrance tour, bridal shower or corporate team building which includes perfume making onsite and offsite, beach activities and more. We also serve primary school learning journey, secondary students and pupil on industrial excursions. Know more about our orchids perfume bar or therapeutic orchid scents and other wellness aromas. Conatct Perfume workshop or book a scent crafting session here.